It's true I tell you!
After much delay, JonM and I (ChrisO) finally mustered the courage to put our wine drinking mugs in front of the microphone to record this latest Bordeaux podcast. We are particularly excited about this podcast because we get to discuss a topic that is not usually associated with this region, and that is value. Join us as we taste through 3 wines; a white, rose, and red wine from the broader appellations of Bordeaux. All of the wines we taste are in the sub $15 range and deliver on the promise of good QPR (quality price ratio).
This is also the show where we introduce our new rating system meant to make it easy for you to keep track of what we thought about the wines we swirl, sip and occasionally spit. We update you on what is happening in the vineyards in northern California and of course talk wine. Make sure and listen to the whole podcast because we have introduced a new segment called Wine Snob’s Trivia. Get the answer right and we could clothe you in some Vintuba Haute Couture. Post the answer to the question either on our Facebook fan page or on the discussion section of the blog post (make sure to include the keyword SNOB ANSWER). Answer the question correctly and be entered into a drawing to win free Vintuba SWAG!
And now for you true wine geeks who want to read my ramblings, thoughts, opinions, and free advice or for those of you who are eager to acquire some nugget of information about Bordeaux that you can use to impress the hell out of your date, boss or neophyte wine friends (like JonM), its time to read on… (disclaimer the following my be considered a homeopathic cure for insomnia)
So what and where the hell is Bordeaux? Let me address the where part first: Bordeaux is a region located on the west coast of France along the Gironde river and it also happens to be largest producer of French AC (appellation controlee)
Our Three Value Bordeaux sub $15
wine. It produces a staggering 75+ million cases of wine in an average year, that’s 900 million bottles Vintuba peeps! In comparison, the number of cases of Napa Valley wine produced annually is 9.2 million; that’s 110 million bottles. Bordeaux produces large quantities of everyday wine, as well as some of the most expensive wines of the world. Included among the latter are the area’s five ‘premier cru’ (first growth) red wines (four from Médoc and one, Château Haut-Brion, from Graves) — check out the map for more detail. These 5 first growths were established by the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, Château Mouton-Rothschild. These Chateaux wines fetch hundreds of dollars per bottle upon release, not exactly value wines unless your Bill Gates or Jay-Z but in actuality these prestigious châteaux represent only a very small fraction of total wine production.
So you can see from the sheer volume that Bordeaux produces it has to be quite big right? So here is a little more info on the geographic area: the wine districts of Bordeaux are marked by a huge estuary and its rivers; the Gironde river, which flows into the Atlantic ocean and splits the region into what is often referred to as the Left & Right banks. The Gironde is actually formed by the convergence of two other rivers that flow from the east, the Garonne & Dardogne, it is between these two rivers where the large are of Entre-Deux-Mers is located, it is this area that is responsible for much of the value and volume production of Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur AOC, and Bordeaux Clairet AOC.
Are you confused yet? Well quite frankly so am I, especially considering that I am writing this after having tried several glasses of the region’s wines. So let me attempt to clarify a little more… In the Bordeaux wine region there are a number of Regional Appellations d’origine contrôlées (AOCs) that may be used throughout the entire region of Bordeaux. The production area allowed to use these AOC covers the entire region, including those areas which also have access to more geographically delineated prestigious AOCs, such as Margeaux, Paulliac, St-Estephe, et all. So in other words, the wine can come from almost anywhere with in the boundaries on the map below. Think of it in terms of Napa Valley, meaning there are wines that state only Napa Valley on the label that can contain grapes sourced from any part of the region, and then there are other wines that list the specific subregion on the label like Carneros, Rutherford, or Spring Mountain. Wines labeled as such must contain fruit grown specifically in those areas. Sure hope that last part helped…
Click to enlarge
The regional AOC of the Bordeaux region are Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Sec and Bordeaux Moelleux. These represent the basic level of red, rosé and white wines (dry and sweet) of the region, and represent the largest production volume among the AOC wines of Bordeaux. These AOCs are often called generic because they do not indicate a specific subregion or commune within Bordeaux as the source of the wine. Large parts of the Bordeaux region can only use the generic appellations. As stated above, most Bordeaux AOC is produced within the Entre-Deux-Mers subregion. (For its exact location, reference the map above). It is ironic but true that even the most basic of Bordeaux AOC’s have the right to display the text Grand Vin de Bordeaux – Great wine of Bordeaux. Warning, don’t be fooled into thinking that this is in any way a statement of quality, just like “reserve” on a bottle of California wine it has no legal requirement and therefore means absolutely nothing.
So here is what you can infer when you see the following AOC’ s listed on a label of Bordeaux wines:
Bordeaux AOC
Wine style
Most are, red and dry white. They tend to be simple and fruity everyday wines that are meant for early consumption rather than cellaring. More impressive reds tend to be sold as Bordeaux Supérieur AOC (see below). You will not see sweet white wines or rosés labeled as Bordeaux AOC, as they are relegated to use other generic appellations with in the greater Bordeaux area.
Having said what I said above, I am now going to tell you about some notable exceptions to the general rule of Bordeaux AOC, that all wines tend to be simple; there are some dry white wines produced in Médoc and Sauternes (regions known for their high-priced wines), and labeled Bordeaux AOC because the aforementioned AOC’s are reserved for the production of respectively red and sweet wines. Thus, some very prestigious and expensive dry white wines, such as Château Margaux’s Pavillon Blanc and Château d’Yquem’s “Y” have to be classified as “simple” Bordeaux AOCs. Are you catching on? No well just wait…
Grape varieties
For red wines, the most planted grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Franc is not as common but also authorized. Petit Verdot and Malbec are scarce.
For white wines, Sauvignon blanc, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Gris each represent 42% of the vineyard surface and Muscadelle 9%. Other permitted grape varieties are Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Ondenc and Mauzac.
Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
The Bordeaux supérieur appellation covers the same geographic area as Bordeaux AOC. However, the wine in this appellation is produced by older vines. Moreover, Bordeaux supérieur wines must be raised at least for twelve months before they can be sold and has a higher minimum level of alcohol. One could infer that these wines tend to be a little more expressive than regular Bordeaux AOC wine (the notable exception excluded of course)
Grape varieties
The authorized grape varieties are the same as Bordeaux AOC
Bordeaux Clairet AOC
Here is where I lost my co-host JonM so stay sharp! Bordeaux clairet is another generic AOC for the Bordeaux defined as “clairet”. All other appellations in the Bordeaux region, including the most prestigious ones, are entitled to produce under this AOC. Bordeaux clairet is a wine which can either be described as a dark rosé wine or a light-colored red wine. As there is also a more commonly used Bordeaux rosé designation, Bordeaux clairet is not simply any rosé from Bordeaux.
Fun Fact-Bordeaux clairet wines are similar in color to the wines which were shipped from Bordeaux to England during the Middle Ages, known as French Claret. These wines established the fame of Bordeaux as a wine-making region, and led to the (primarily British) practice of referring to Bordeaux as “claret”. They are refreshing wines, appreciated because they can be easily enjoyed with picnics or exotic food.
Grape varieties
The authorized grape varieties are the same as red Bordeaux AOC although Merlot is the most common of this AOC.
Challenges!
As you can see this is complicated stuff and I think it represents one of the many reasons why the trade organization, retailers, and chateaux themselves are having a hard time getting these wine into the hands of thirsty consumers. The modern-day consumer, of value wines, has been trained to pick up a bottle and buy it based on the variety listed on the label or worse yet by the picture of the critter on the bottle. We have become a public used to, initially at least, judging a book, or wine, by its cover or label. Come on admit it you have been guilty of this at some point! Most consumers do not want a wine mystery or adventure when it comes to plopping down their hard-earned $5-15 on a wine, they want safe! in other words, consumers seek easily identified varieties listed on the front label, these labels, incidentally, most also be visually appealing, the back label must be packed with information on how the wine was made and detailed instruction on how, when and with what to consume it. Do I sound bitter yet? As proof to support my Everyman’s wine snob ramblings I give you the result of my very unscientific survey that I took on our Facebook fan page. I asked the following question “How important is a wine label that lists the grape variety to you? Are you less likely to purchase a wine that does not list the grape composition?” here are some of the responses:
“More information the better. Shows they are serious about the wine”
“I like to know what’s in the bottle before I buy. Less inclined to buy mystery wines and blends.”
I think the trade organizations that represent these Bordeaux regional AOC see the challenge and are starting to get proactive in trying to increase awareness among value driven consumers, they are using social media channels, check out the following links for examples:
Planet Bordeaux’s Facebook page
They are enlisting fellow bloggers like my friend DrXeno to conduct live video tastings, and using cute names like “Le Wine Buff” . During these regularly scheduled live tasting you can interact and ask questions about wines to the Bordeaux imbibing man or women in front of the camera. I am also told that Planet Bordeaux , the organization that supplied samples for this story, will be revamping their website to appeal to the value driven american consumer and will also be launching a Twitter TasteLive event very soon so stay tuned.
I for one am a big fan of these wines, regardless of how they are labeled or marketed, as they represent a refreshing alternative to some of the new world drivel that is available at the same price point. These are wines that do not cloud themselves in a sea of oak chips, de-alcoholization, acidification or other more new fangled wine making techniques. They are fresh, refreshing, good with food, sometime a little dirty and funky, and never apologetic and I like that. They are worth a try if for no other reason than because you can afford to at these price points. Who knows you may find that taking the plunge into the deep end of the ambiguous wine label pool is actually fun and refreshing!
So my dear regional Bordeaux AOC friends, I see there being a tough road ahead for you in the U.S. market, but you’re making some great efforts. This is not to say that you should give up, especially if you keep making wines that are as good a value as the three wines that JonM and I tried for this podcast. Perhaps you could develop your own critter label to appeal to the masses, may I suggest a Badger or a Duckbilled Platypus? Can you tell I work in marketing?
Sauvignon Blanc & Gris blend
Here are my (ChrisO’s) tasting notes on the wines we tried.
2009 Chateau Pierrail Bordeaux AOC
(Sauvignon Blanc & Sauvignon Gris)
Nice bright lemon color with a nose that showed medium plus intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon and orange zest, green apple and some wet river rocks. Mouthfeel was balanced with good bright acid and flavors of green apples, bitter oranges and ruby grapefruit. The finish was medium in length but simple. I detected slight bitter notes on the finish.
Music pairing suggestion: Spanish Guitar
Enjoyed with Spanish Chorizo and goat cheese,which the wine complimented beautifully.
Drink now while it is nice and fresh.
RATING out of 5 glasses
At $12 this is a good value
2009 Chateau de Fontenille Bordeaux Clairet AOC
(Rosé of Cabernet Franc 95% & Cabernet Sauvignon 5%)
Bright ruby-red core that fades to a strawberry red at the edge of the glass. Medium intense youthful aromas of citrus, strawberries, rhubarb, sour cherries and dried herbs. The palate opens with a burst of fresh acid that is balanced by the youthful flavors of cherries, strawberries, some herbaceous notes and slight phenolic character (usually imparted by skin or stem contact). The Finish was medium in length and showed some unexpected complexity. This is an amazing value and just screams to be had with food, my recommendation would be BBQ’d meats from the grill or a nice Mediterranean antipasti platter with fresh charcuterie.
Drink now while it is nice and fresh.
RATING out of 5 glasses
At $12 a bottle this is an absolute steal!!!!!
2008 Chateau Lamothe Vincent “Heritage” Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
(Merlot 75% & Cabernet-Sauvignon 25% )
Deep ruby-red in color with medium intense developing aromas of wet earth, mulberries (aka large European blue berries), Cremé de Cassis, licorice, and hints of vanilla bean. The tannins are grippy and spicy and the alcohol and acid well-balanced. The wine is medium bodied and offers some nice textural experiences but lacks something on the mid-palate. The flavors are of Blackcurrant, plums, Mulberries, coffee and mocha. The finish is medium in length with some complexity.
Drink now or over next 2-3 years
Enjoyed with Tri-Tip steaks from the grill.
RATING out of 5 glasses
Overall a good value for the $14
As always thanks for your support and please leave us a comment!
Cheers,
The Everyman’s Wine Snob, ChrisO
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