Here are three wines that I think should be on your holiday list, if not on your table.  If you are looking for the old school predictable holiday wine recommendation I suggest you look elsewhere.  However if discovery is more to your liking then keep reading.  I have chosen these wines because they are not only under appreciated but because they are sure to awaken you from your mono-varietal zombie state, after all who wants to be a zombie during the holidays?

Wine 1: Sherry – Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva Manzanilla Papirusa $16

There is no wine region in the world, with the exception of perhaps Jura, that is less appreciated than Jerez, Spain.  The traditional wine making, quality, and incredible value make this wine a must try for any adventurous palate.

The particular Sherry I am recommending here is a sub-category of the better-known Fino style.  It shares with Fino the bone-dry character and pale straw color. Manznilla (the name for this particular style of Sherry) is exclusively from the port-town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, located on the coast. When compared to Finos they tend to be somewhat lighter in weight and more delicate with a distinctive hint of saltiness. Manzanilla Sherries scream to be paired with almonds, olives, seafood and just about any salty or boldly flavored appetizer you care to throw at them. My favorite pairing has them dancing on my palate with sushi or fresh raw oysters.

Wine 2: 2008 Weingut Gernot and Heike Heinrich Pannobile, Neusiedlersee, Austria $35

Excitement is what I felt when I first discovered this delicious wine, I felt like I had uncovered a secret! Austria is known for it’s white wines Grüner Velteliner and Rieslings but often overlooked when it comes to red wines.  This particular wine caught my attention because of the unique way in which it is brought to life, you see once every year, nine producers who are part of the Pannobile association, heralding from the Burgenland region of Austria, select their best red wine as a potential candidate for the red Pannobile. The criteria is reported to be very strict; only the highest quality indigenous varieties; Zweigelt, Blaufräkisch and St. Laurent, that grow within the defined Pannobile vineyard sites, may be used to craft the wine. The winemaker can decide whether he or she presents a single varietal wine or a blend of these three designated Pannobile varieties. The unanimous decision to elect the Pannobile wine is made in the final, decisive group tasting. This is collaboration at it finest! While the resulting wines all share a similar style they evolve over time with each having its own special individual character.

Winemaker Gernot Heinrich has created with his Pannobile a wine with aromas of dark berries, a great fruit-spice and fine tannins. A wonderful accompaniment to meals, but also a fabulous solo adventure! Opens with an intense bouquet of dark berries, clear and elegant structure. Has great fruit flavor that combines harmoniously on the palate with firm but elegant tannins. This Pannobile is made up of the varieties 70% Blaufränkisch and 30% Zweigelt. Sure to help you kick that Cabernet habit!

Wine 3: 2008 – Donnafugata Ben Rye Passito Di Pantelleria $28

Think that interesting sweet wines only come from Sauterne, Loire, Tokaj, or Duoro? Think again, this little jewel comes from a tiny island off the southern coast of Sicily. It is closer in culture and distance to northe Africa then it is to Rome of Milan. The winds whip around this island forcing the Zibibbo (aka Moscato d’Alessandria) vines to be trained closed to the ground and protected by little mounts made of the volcanic soils. Vine growing is not easy here. Harvest is early, usually starting the beginning of August when grapes are picked and left to dry in the sun for 20 to 30 days to concentrate the sugars.

This is a decadent sweet wine with wonderful aromas of apricot, peaches, honey, marzipan and nutmeg spice on the finish. The silky texture is both rich and exhilarating.  Pairs wonderfully with blue cheese served over a warm apple tartlet or with foie gras.

Happy holidays!

I am very excited to announce that The Center for Wine Origins and I have organized the inaugural Port Day celebration for Friday, January 27th, 2012.  Why did we do this you may ask?  Well, I personally feel that Port, which incidentally only comes from Portugal, deserves not only wider recognition as one of the vinous wonders of the world but that there is a lot opportunity to  expose the broader wine drinking public to this beverage.  This day is an opportunity for not only producers, but wine educators, geeks, blogs, mainstream media, and the general public to put down their Cabernet and Chardonnay and join in a global celebration and education centered around Port.

Participating is easy. Join the#PortDay celebrations online by blogging, tweeting, posting and sharing your thoughts about this exceptional wine by using the#PortDay hashtag. Or, you can host or join one of the numerous retail and restaurant tastings that are being planned in locations across the United States.

REGISTER HERE:

If you are interested in hosting an event please contact me at info (at) vintuba (dot) com

Thanks again to all that participated in the 2011 iteration of #ChampagneDay and I hope to see you all for #ChampagneDay 2012 next year.

#ChampagneDay Thank you -

On Friday October 28th 2011 the world celebrated the 2nd annual installment of  #ChampagneDay.  #ChampagneDay was started last year by yours truly for no other reason then to educate wine lovers around the globe on the true uniqueness of this exhilarating beverage called Champagne. The goal was to bring together people from all over the world and  have them discover, discuss, and enjoy REAL Champagne, which comes only from the region of the same name located in northeastern France.  The first installment in 2010 was a humble effort supported by The Champagne Bureau in Washington DC, Whole Foods in Alexandria, Virginia, Champagne Tainttinger, Vintank, Becky Sue Epstein, Ed Thralls, and many many more Facebookers, Tweeters, and other IRL supporters.

The 2nd annual 2011 installment of #ChampagneDay was off to a roaring start.  I received too many email to count from countless individuals, wine educators, businesses and producers on how they could participate.  What excited me most about this is that many wanted to host events and organize get-together in their local area, which was exactly what I had envisioned for this day all along, people getting together to celebrate, educate, enjoy, and most of all build relationships. I was fortunate to hosted an event with Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson here in Napa at the Westin Verasa.  The educational event consisted of a Champagne Overview Class – led by me (Christian Oggenfuss, DWS just incase you were wondering who the heck “me” is) (link here to the presentation), A Champagne Master Class – led by Andrea Immer Robinson, MS, and A Champagne and Food Pairing seminar led by Chef Ken Frank and Andrea Immer Robinson, MS. To see the wines we tasted see below.  We had a total of 140 RSVPs for the three seminars and we’re humbled by the positive feedback. Events were also hosted in Sydney Australia, Reims France, Loire Valley, France, New York, London, Boston, Argentina, LA, Seattle, Palm Beach, Washington DC, Hong Kong, and I am sure many more that we did not even know about.   Here are some brief stats for the day: People reached- 1.7 Million, Impressions 3.3 million, individual tweets 7,300 and this is just for the 24 hour period on October 28th 2011.

Here are the wines we enjoyed at our Napa event:

Champagne Overview with Christian Oggenfuss, DWS (link to slide deck here)
Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV
G.H. Mumm Rosé
Paul Goerg 2002 Blanc de Blancs – the surprise hit of the evening

Champagne Master Class with Andrea Immer Robinson, MS
Non-Vintage Champagnes
Henroit Brut Souv
Ployez-Jacquemart Brut NV
Duval-Leroy Brut NV
Moet Imperial Brut NV
Tarland Zero Dosage NV – a stand out of the evening
Blanc de Blancs Champagnes
Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

Rosé Champagnes
Henroit Rosé Brut NV
Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial Rosé

Vintage Champagnes
Duval Leroy Clos de Bouveries 2004
Dom Perignon 2000
Gosset Grand Millesime 2000 – another favorite of the evening

Champagne Food Pairing with Chef Ken Frank and Andrea Immer Robinson, MS
Charles Heidsieck Brut paired with Duck and Foie Gras Rilettes Duval Leroy Rosé
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2004  paired with Gravlax on Toasted Brioche
G.H. Mumm, Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs paired with Lightly Curried Crabmeat Salad
Duval Leroy Brut Rosé paired with Beef Carpaccio with Smoky Aioli and Burgundy Truffle
Joseph Perrier Champagne Cuvee Royale Demi Sec NV paired with Chilled Lobster with Lemongrass and Mango

Surprise Wine during Pairing session – Gossett Celebris Blanc de Blancs  Extra Brut MV – an audience favorite

Thanks again to all that participated in the 2011 iteration of #ChampagneDay and I hope to see you all for #ChampagneDay 2012 next year.

Why is it that whenever someone attempts to describe exotic meats like rattlesnake, frog legs, or alligator they say it taste like chicken? Is it because we fail to recognize the subtleties of texture and flavor? Or perhaps we are at a loss for descriptive words? Or maybe we are just lazy? How does one describe the taste of chicken? Surly not be saying it tastes like rattlesnake, frog legs, or alligator!

What I have observed over the years is a wine world equivalent to the ‘taste like chicken’ phenomenon.  Especially where Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, and Rhône varieties are concerned. I have time and again (and I am sure you have too!) heard winemakers, journalist, wine-geeks, etc describe wines produced from the aforementioned grapes that herald from lesser known regions with less pedigree, as tasting Burgundian,  Right or Left Bank Bordeaux like, Cote Rotie or Chateauneuf-du-Pape like (aka chicken).

Now I know what they are attempting to do is put the wine in a context that communicates whether the wines have characteristics that are correct to the variety, but comparing the wines from other regions to more famous ones may seem like a compliment, however it is actually quite the opposite. You see I am a firm believer that a wine should taste like and have the characteristics of the place in which it was grown and vilified.  I don’t want my Santa Barbara or Central Otago Pinot Noir to taste like a Cote de Nuit otherwise why not just by the real thing?  It should taste like the region in which it was grown, and journalist, winemakers, and wine geeks should embrace this notion. How many times have you heard Chablis described as very “Californian”? or a Corton-Charlemagne as so Oregon like? Not that this would be an insult by any means, but these regions and wines have earned their goût de terroir stripes over 100s of years.  By continuing to compare all Pinot Noirs to Burgundy, Cabernet Sauvignons to Bordeaux, and Syrah’s to the Northern Rhone, we are discounting the influence of terroir in these other regions.  Is it not time that we do the lesser known regions and the new world wine world the favor of stopping the comparisons to their old world brethren? After all, the only thing that truly taste like chicken is chicken!

Arrived in Bordeaux and feeling very jet-lagged, but  looking forward to visiting the following chateaus over the next 5 days:
Monday 14th March
Château DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Saint-Julien
Visit Tasting by Mr Bruno BORIE (owner)

Château LAFON-ROCHET
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Saint-Estèphe
Dinner

With Mr Basile TESSERON (Owner)

Tuesday 15th March

Château LYNCH-MOUSSAS
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Pauillac
Visit Tasting
with Mr Philippe CASTEJA (Owner) and
President of the “Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855”

And Médoc Educational Tasting
(15 differents Médoc Grands Crus Classés)
Vintages 2008, 2006 & 2001 (5 wines of each vintage).

Château DURFORT-VIVENS
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Margaux
Visit Tasting and Lunch
with Mr Gonzague LURTON (Owner)

Château BEYCHEVELLE
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Saint-Julien
Visit Tasting and Seminar by Mr Philippe BLANC (General Manager)
“Terroir, viticulture and winemaking in the Médoc Grands Crus Classés.”

Château LYNCH-BAGES
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Pauillac
Visit Tasting and Dinner (Café Lavinal)
With Mr Nicolas LABENNE (Technical Director)

Wednesday 16th March

Château DESMIRAIL
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Margaux
Visit Tasting and Seminar by Mr. Denis LURTON (Owner)
“Grands Crus Classés Trade”

Château BRANE-CANTENAC
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Margaux
Visit Tasting and Lunch
with Mr. Henri LURTON (Owner)

Château CANTENAC BROWN
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Margaux
Visit Tasting with Mr. José SANFINS (General Manager)

and Seminar by Mr Dewey MARKHAM jr
“1855 Classification”

Château GRAND-PUY DUCASSE
Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Pauillac
Visit Tasting and Dinner
With Mrs Anne Le NAOUR (Technical Director)

Thursday 17th March

Seminar by Mr Denis DUBOURDIEU (Oenology Professor)
at the Institut de la Vigne et du Vin (ISVV) – Villenave d’Ornon

“Complementary of grapes varieties and their sensory influences in the
style of red, white and sweet great wines.”

Château RIEUSSEC
1er Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Sauternes
Visit Tasting and Lunch
With Mr Charles CHEVALLIER (General Manager)

Château CLIMENS
1er Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Barsac
With Mrs Bérénice LURTON (Owner)

Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855 and Mr Frédéric NIVELLE (Technical Director)

Visit Tasting and Seminar
“Terroir and winemaking in the Sauternes Grands Crus Classés.”

And Sauternes Educational Tasting
(5 differents Sauternes Grands Crus Classés – vintage 2006)

Château LA TOUR BLANCHE
1er Grand Cru Classé in 1855 – Sauternes
Visit Tasting and

As you can see a full agenda over the next few days.  Stay tuned for updates, pictures and videos, all followed by an in-depth post on the highlights.

This is an old family recipe that my grandmother used to treat us to when we lived in Florida and reminds me of the rich Cuban traditions that were such a big part of my culinary awakening and that still continue to influence me.  Invite some friends over grab a couple or three bottles of wine (see my recommendations below) and spoil them with this dish; you will be the talk of the supper club circuit.

Ingredients:

1 pound ground grass fed beef
1 pound ground pork
2 medium yellow onions
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 large green bell pepper
3 tbs Olive Oil
2 tsp salt
Pepper to taste
1 tbs brown sugar
¼ cup vinegar
¼ cup stuffed green olives, chopped
½ cup raisins
1 tbs capers
½ cup red wine
6 small tomatoes chopped (or 2 small cans)

Saffron Rice:

2 tbs Olive Oil
2 cup Uncooked Rice
3 Shallots; minced
5 cups Chicken Stock
1 tsp Saffron
Salt to taste

Making the magic happen:

Chop the onions and green peppers very fine and brown in the olive oil.  Add the chopped tomatoes, salt, minced garlic, pepper, and ground beef and pork, stirring constantly to break into small bits.  Add remaining ingredients slowly and simmer on medium until meat is tender, about 1 hour.

Mean while sauté rice and shallots in olive oil until shallots are limp. Combine rice and shallots with broth in pot; season with saffron, salt. Cover and steam until rice is done, 18 to 20 minutes. Uncover and allow to dry out, 3 to 5 minutes. Fluff with fork before serving.

Serve the Picadillo over the yellow rice.

Wine pairing suggestion:

This is a dish that brings a lot of flavor to the table. Since there is a bit of sweet and savory interplay that happens with the Picadillo it lends itself to a wine that brings some acid and fruit, which will both balance and complement the flavors of the meal.  I have selected three wines that I think have what it takes to make a perfect pairing.

Abadia Retuerta Selección Especial 2006  -Sardón de Duero, Spain

In the glass a very intense dark core with some cherry color on the rim. The nose is complex with fresh red fruit and hints of eucalyptus and well-integrated oak aromas of roasted coffee and caramel. A very soft and supple entrance on the palate leads to flavors of dark berries, vanilla, and earth. Great balance between alcohol, acidity and structure with very fine ripe soft tannins that linger on a long persistent finish.

Imagery Estate Winery Grenache 2008 – Sonoma Valley, California

In the glass a medium plus ruby core fading to a light ruby rim. The wine shows medium plus aromas of baking spices, ripe blackberry fruit and a good dose of vanillin.  The palate boasts enticing flavors of dark fruits, blackberry, cinnamon, smoked meats, and a floral quality. The wine is balance with fruit and acid although the alcohol is a little on the high side.  The finish is punctuated by oak and shows medium complexity.

Pic Saint Loup Rouge “Cuvée Sainte Agnès” 2007 – Languedoc, France

In the glass it is dark core with a slight garnet rim. The initial aromas are medium in intensity of baked berry pie with an old world earthy. On the palate it is sturdy and rustic with a taste of wild herbs, berries, savoriness, and earth.  The wine is balanced and shows medium plus complexity on the finish.

Let us know what wine you end up pairing with this gorgeous Cuban dish and how it worked.

Remember wine is about the journey of discovery, not just the destination of an empty bottle!

Cheers,

Chris Oggenfuss

On this very first day of 2011 I wanted to share one of my favorite winter dishes, this is a rich and creamy lamb and veal lasagna dish from Marches region of Italy, and is perfect for warming your soul during the short days of winter.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

½ oz truffle oil

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

1 ½ cups boiling water if using dried mushrooms

2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley chopped

Meat Sauce

3 tbl spoons olive oil

3 oz pancetta, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped

8 oz ground veal

8 oz ground lamb

½ cup dry white wine (suggestion is Verdicchio)

1 cup beef broth (reduced sodium if possible)

1 cup tomato purée

1 bay leaf

pinch of fresh ground cinnamon

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 oz fresh white mushrooms cut into ¼-inch slices

6 oz chicken livers, trimmed and chopped (optional, however it makes for a richer dish)

Béchmel Sauce:

3 cups whole milk

½ cup unsalted butter

½ cup all-purpose flour

12 oz dried or fresh lasagna noodles

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup freshly grated pecorino romano cheese

Making the magic happen:

Put dried porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over them, and soak for 30 min until soft. Remove from water rinse under cold water and chop finely and set aside. Carefully pour 1 cup f the soaking liquid into a measuring cup and set aside.

To make the meat sauce heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Add the pancetta, garlic, onions, and carrot and coo, stirring, until the pancetta begins to brown, approx 5 minutes. Add the veal and lamb, raise the heat to medium, and cook, breaking meats with a wooden spoon, until they are lightly browned, approx 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook until it has almost evaporated. Add the beef broth, tomato purée, bay leaf, cinnamon, and nutmeg and season with salt and pepper.  Stir ingredients well, reduce the heat to low, and simmer gently for 45 minutes.  Add the reserved porcini, sliced fresh mushrooms, and chicken livers.  Cook for 15 minutes longer and then remove from heat.

To make the Béchmel Sauce in a small saucepan, heat milk over medium-low heat until bubbles form around the edges of the pan.  In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Gradually whisk in the flour and continue to whisk until the mixture turns golden in color, about 3 minutes. Now gradually whisk the hot milk into the flour mixture until smooth.  Add the reserved porcini mushroom liquid and continue to whisk until the mixture thickens aprox 8 to 10 minutes. Cover and remove from heat.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.  Oil a 9 by 13 inch baking dish.

Fill a large pot with salted water to a boil.  Add the pasta, stir well, and cook the noodles until al dente, about 8 minutes.  Meanwhile, in a bowl mix together the 2 cheeses.

Drain the pasta, lay the sheets on a damp kitchen towel, and lay another damp towel over them.  Pour a thin layer of béchmel sauce on the bottom of the baking dish.  Arrange a single layer of the noodles on top. Scatter one-third of the cheese over the noodles.  Pour one-third of the meat sauce over the cheese layer and top with a thin layer of béchmel sauce.  Repeat twice more, finishing with a layer of béchmel sauce (very important not to leave the top dry).

Bake the lasagna until the top has browned slightly about 25 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes to set before cutting into squares to serve. Finish by drizzling truffle oil over the Vincigrassi and garnishing  with chopped flat leaf parsley

Wine pairing suggestion:

This is one of my favorite Italian dishes, for winter, so I choose three Italian wines that I thought would do this recipe justice.  Since this is a creamy rich meal with lots of flavor it needs a wine that brings some good acid and rich flavors of its own. I have selected one white and one red from the Veneto region and one red from the Piedmont region that I feel would be a good pairing.  Both the Veneto and Piedmont regions are located in northern Italy and I selected three of my favorite producers known for crafting world-class wines:

Gini Soave Classico DOC 2008

This wine is made from 100% Garganega, from Italy’s Veneto regions, this grape typically makes a richly fruited, soft, medium bodied white wine redolent of melon, green plum, and citrus fruits expressed in a distinctly fruity aroma.

Zenato Ripassa Superiore DOC 2008

Zenato gives the name “Ripassa” to this wine, which shares many of the characteristics of Amarone by virtue that Valpolicella wine is allowed to ferment a second time on the pomace of the grapes that are left over after the Amarone wine is done fermenting.  This process increases the alcoholic content and gives the wine deeper color, increased extract, and more complex aromas and flavors.
The resulting wine has  a rounded, velvety-textured with rich, complex aromas of berries and a lengthy finish that seems to linger forever.

La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti “Ca di Pian” 2007

This wine is made from the Barbera grape variety. It is produced in the hilly areas of the provinces of Asti located in the Piedmont region. The wine is very typical of the modern style with ruby-red color and purple reflections and offers intense aromas of red cherry, blueberry and cassis. The palate is laden with fresh fruit  of cherry and cassis, and offers nice acidity, that are balanced by structured tannins.

Would love to hear your thoughts on the recipe and what you might recommend as a good wine to pair with this dish.

Remember wine is about the journey of discovery, not just the destination of an empty bottle!

I was graciously invited, along with Rick Bakas, by Andrea Robinson, Master Sommelier, to be on her live Thanksgiving Wine & Food pairing show this last Sunday. It was so much fun to meet the celebrity winemaker guests including; Janet Trefethen, Joseph Wagner, and Cyril Chappellet.  Watch the video and then head over to Andrea’s website to vote on your favorite wine to pair with Turkey.

On October 5^th 2010 I had a “come to Jesus” meeting with Beaujolais.  I had on many occasions thoroughly enjoyed Cru Beaujolais, but rarely if ever ordered them from a wine list or grabbed them from a wine store shelf. Not because I didn’t like them, I had loved them in the past, but because they where not in the forefront of my mind. I mean how often do you hear anyone talking about Beaujolais unless it is to speak ill of Beaujolais nouveau.

Ok so back to my religious awakening. So I got the opportunity to try the new 2009 vintage of the Cru Beaujolais at RN74 in San Francisco.  I was a guest of the Inter Beaujolais, the trade organization that is in charge of promoting the region and funded by the French government. This is just one of the perks that a wine-geek and blogger gets, besides the look of disdain from “traditional” media when you mention you blog about wine.  Any way I digress. The event was entitled “Fusion by Beaujolais” and its goal was to highlight the regions vinous virtues by pairing the much-heralded 2009 vintage of Cru wines with an Asian influenced four-course menu.  Nonetheless, I was not about to have my palate influenced by a bunch of bureaucrats. But I must admit they were on to something!

But before we get the day’s highlights let me give you the 5 cent tour of the Beaujolais region.  All the red wines from the Beaujolais region, which is regarded administratively as part of Burgundy but geologically as part of the northern Rhone, are vinified from the thin-skinned, prolific early-ripening Gamay grape. These grapes, by law must be harvested by hand. The region is stilled made up of many small independent growers and vignerons. The greater Beaujolais region is divided into two; The Haut-Beaujolais of the north and the Bas-Beaujolais of the south. Granite tends to dominate the northern Haut-Beaujolais where the wines of the Beaujolais-villages and Crus come from. The Cru wines account for a quarter of the production and are AOC labeled with the village name that they herald from; there are ten in all. So get yourself ready to meet the 10 Motley Crus of Beaujolais:

• Saint-Amour – The wines from Saint-Amour are noted for their spicy flavors with aromas of peaches. Soils of mixed granite, clay, and schist.
  

• Juliénas-This cru is based around the village named after Julius Caesar. Soil is clay mixed with sandy granite.
• Chénas – the smallest Cru Beaujolais with wines that are noted for their aroma of wild roses. Soil is pure sandy grantie mixed with some gravel.
• Moulin-à-Vent – Wines are very similar to the nearby Chénas. This region produces some of the longest lasting examples of Beaujolais wine, with some wines lasting up to ten years. Some producers will age their Moulin-à-Vent in oak, which gives these wines more tannin and structure than other Beaujolais wines. The phrase fûts de chêne (oak casks) will sometimes appear on the wine label of these oak aged wines The resulting wine from Moulin-à-Vent are the most full bodied and powerful examples in Beaujolais. Soils are dominated by manganese and salmon pink granite.
• Fleurie – One of the most widely exported Cru Beaujolais into the United States. These wines often have a velvet texture with fruity and floral bouquet. The slopes are east facing and the soil is made up of pink granite shingles.
• Chiroubles – This cru has vineyards at the highest altitudes among the Cru Beaujolais. Chiroubles cru are noted for their delicate perfume that often includes aromas of violets. Soils are pure granite with fine clay sand.
• Morgon – Produces earthy wines that can take on a Burgundian character of silky texture after five years aging. These wines are generally the deepest color and most rich Cru Beaujolais behind Moulin-à-Vent with aromas of red cherries, apricots and peaches.  The soils here are called roches pourries or “rotten rocks” and are composed of decomposed schist and iron.
• Régnié – The most recently recognized Cru, One of the more fuller bodied crus It is noted for its red currant and raspberry flavors. Local lore in the region states that this Cru was the site of the first vineyards planted in Beaujolais by the Romans. Soils are part sandy granite and part schist.
• Brouilly - The largest Cru in Beaujolais, The wines are noted for their aromas of blueberries, cherries, raspberries and currants. Soils here are varied with granite, schist, river alluvium, and sandy clay.
• Côte de Brouilly – Located on the higher slopes of the extinct volcano Mont Brouilly. The wines from this region are more deeply concentrated with less earthiness than Brouilly wine. Soils are composed of granite with blue diorite and schist.

The Bas-Beaujolais is a different in soil make up of the north, here limestone rains supreme and many say it is not the ideal soil for the Gamay grape and thus is responsible for the often boring regular old Beaujolais, Beaujolais Supérieure, and of course Beaujolais nouveau. As you can see there is a lot more to Beaujolais then just nouveau!

Here is a little background on Beaujolais nouveau. For those that may not be familiar; Beaujolais Nouveau began as a local French phenomenon being served in the local bars, cafes, and bistros of Beaujolais and Lyons. Each fall the new Beaujolais would arrive with much fanfare. In pitchers filled from the grower’s barrels, an eager population consumed the wine. This was wine made for fast consumption (and even faster generation of cash flow for the producers) to be consumed while the better Beaujolais Villages and Crus were taking a more leisurely course to market. This French phenomenon quickly spread to neighboring countries in the 70’s, to England in the 80’s and finally to the U.S. in the 90’s.

By French law, Beaujolais Nouveau is to be released no earlier than the third Thursday of November. However, it is hard to believe that this wine was, just a few weeks earlier, a mere cluster of grapes hanging on a vine. These grapes, 100% Gamay incidentally, are harvested, rushed through a rapid fermentation (using the carbonic maceration method), and a speedy bottling to insure that they are ready to fly out the door in advance of their November release date.  Thanks to brilliant marketing and sales savvy, by the time it is all said and done, over 65 million bottles of Beaujolais’ nouveau, nearly half of the region’s total annual production, will be distributed and drunk around the world. Such is the fever that has been created that it has become a worldwide race to be the first to serve to this new wine of the harvest. In doing so, it has been carried by motorcycle, balloon, truck, helicopter, Concorde jet, elephant, runners and rickshaws to get it to its final destination.  So one would think that this stuff is good right? I mean if 65 million bottles are sold and people are lining up around the world, Well the truth is it is actually just a couple of notches up from battery acid, in my humble “everyman’s wine snob’ opinion. Furthermore it has been credited, rightly so, for giving the rest of the Beaujolais region, an undeserved, bad reputation.

Ok, enough about the French battery acid that is Beaujolais nouveau let me tell you about the oft sublime, low alcohol, fruit forward, food friendly, and 100% Gamay wines that are the Beaujolais –villages and Beaujolais Crus, and which I had occasion to sample at RN74 in San Francisco. I am SUPER excited about these wines, that’s right I am excited enough to spell out super in all caps.  Each pairing was introduced by none-other then acclaimed Sommelier Rajat Parr, the wine director of Mina Group of restaurants. Raj paired the wines with Asian influenced French cuisine, here is my recap.

First Course

YUMM!

The Food:

Sautéed Pork Belly – Honshimeji Mushrooms, Leeks, Ginger, Barrel Aged Tamari. This was such an exquisite dish, and I am a sucker for Pork Belly! The Asian flavors just exploded in my mouth, and the texture of the Pork Belly was just incredible.

The Wines:

Domaine de Colette Beaujolais Villages 2009 – Wine was more extracted then I would have thought possible from Beaujolais, let alone a Villages level wine, it showed deep colors and aromas of ripe cherry, cranberry and strawberries. Less acid then I would have expected but the mouth feel offered a medium plus body, which was supple, round and nicely textured. Lacked acid to make it a perfect match for the Pork Belly, but nonetheless delicious!

Price at retail is $13   Score = B

Duboeuf Beajolais Villages 2009 – The initial aromatic impression of this wine was that of cotton candy and sweet fruit, which lead me to believe that this pairing was not going to work. However, I was wrong, the wine showed ripe flavors of blackberries, cherries, and cassis. The mouth feel was plush with primary sweet fruit juiciness and had enough acidity to pair beautifully with the dish.  The acid and sweet fruit complimented the Asian spices and fattiness of Pork Belly.  A home-run in my book.

Price at retail is $8   Score = A

Second Course

Heaven

The Food:

Roasted Quail- Chanterelle Mushrooms, Caramelized Onion, Burnt Orange. The Quail was out of this world good! It was tender and delicate and beautifully spiced.

The Wines:

Villa Ponciago “la Reserve” Fleurie 2009 – This was perhaps the most disappointing wine of the day. At first whiff I picked up a reductive quality and burnt rubber that overshadowed the muted fruit. In the mouth the wine showed good acid and simple red berry flavors. Overall a disappointment.

Price at retail is $15   Score = C-

Raosset Chiroubles 2009 – In a word Delicious! The nose is driven by primary fruit and floral aromas of violets, cherries, cranberries, and cotton candy. The palate shows medium plus acid, juiciness, low tannin, medium minus body, lower alcohol and a purity of bright fruit flavors consisting of red cherries, cranberries, canned apricots. It paired well with the delicateness of the Quail flavors and the acid extenuated the rich texture of the butter-roasted fowl.

Price at retail is $13   Score = B+

Raosset Grille Midi Fleurie 2009 – Another great example of what Beaujolais can be. This had richer fruit aromas then the previous wine offering up dark cherries, plums syrup, and sweet backing spice.  The wine starts dry with a medium minus body, medium plus acid, balanced alcohol, and medium plus flavors cherries, flowers, spice, and green strawberries. This wine allowed the dish to shine while cleansing the palate with its refreshing acidity and lively fruit.

Price at retail is $20   Score = B+

Domaine Dupeuble 2009 – Described by Par as a wine designed for easy drinking, however I found it to offer some complexity not found in many wines at this price point. On the nose it showed aromas of laser sharp red berry fruit, candied cherries, violets, and cinnamon.  The palate is concentrated (for a Beaujolais) with mouthwatering acid, supple tannins, medium body and flavors of sour cherries, raspberries, red and black current and caramelized sugar. The finish is complex and as delicious as the first sip.

Price at retail is $13   Score = A

Main Course

Fusion goodness!

The Food:

Braised Beef Short Ribs – Sour Cherry, Star Anise, Szechwan Pepper, Bone Marrow Dumplings. Another culinary stunner that offered tones of flavors, I loved this dish but wondered initially how the wines would hold up to this gustatory power play.

The Wines:

Christian Vergiers Morgon 2009 – The nose was clean with medium aromas of roses, red cherries, and boysenberry. Medium light body, with lower then expected acid, light tannins, but shows extracted flavors of black fruits that offer some complexity to an otherwise uninteresting wine.

Price at retail is $17   Score = C-

Maison Louis Tete “Les Charmeuse” Morgon 2009 – This was a wine had the most Pinot like quality of any of the wines I tasted in the lineup. The nose offered enticing aromas of nutmeg spice, cloves, violets, roses, and lots of juicy red fruit. The palate offered a medium body, medium plus acid, nice integrated tannin, and balance alcohol. The flavors here where more extracted then in previous wines, offering plums, black cherries, raspberries, underlain with earthy notes and spice. The finish offered both juicy acid and great complexity not usually seen in Beaujolais, even Rajat Parr agreed that it would be hard to peg this wine, in a blind tasting, as a Beaujolais rather then a Pinot from the Cote Chalonnaise. One of the surprise finds of the luncheon, and at the price point worth buying by the case!

Price at retail is $15   Score = A

Chateau Des Jacques Louis Jadot “Clos de Rochergres” Moulin-A-Vent 2009- Opening aromas of earth and some reductive qualities followed by a very muted nose, not at all what I expected from this wine.  The palate impression revealed bright acid, slight oily texture with low tannin and medium minus alcohol. Fortunately the flavors were more impressive then the aromas, showing savory beef jerky, and tart mostly red fruit. The wine was a disappointment considering its reputation, provenance, and price point. It also did not stand up to the flavors of the food pairing when compared to the other wines.

Price at retail is $30   Score = C

Henry Fessy Moulin-A-Vent 2009- What the previous Moulin-A-Vent lacked this one made up for.  The nose was a little muted but aromas of red cherries, blueberries, blackberries fought their way through.  The palate showed bright acid, balanced alcohol, firm yet light tannin that gave this wine a medium body. Flavors of light oak, licorice, black currant, blackberries and cherries. The finish was complex and considerably lengthier then the previous wines.  This is a true example of the wines that the Cru of Moulin-A-Vent is capable of producing.

Price at retail is $17   Score = A+

Like I said earlier this was a true religious awakening for me as I was reminded of what I had been missing for so long. Lower alcohol wines that are fun and don’t break the bank or your liver. I could now finally stop my very public bellyaching about how it is so hard to find red wines that offer lower alcohol, brighter acid, and food matching affinities. They have existed all along in the wines of Haut Beaujolais.  They had merely been overshadowed by their battery acid cousin Beaujolais nouveau to the south and their regal cousin red Burgundy to the north. If you, like me, truly enjoy wines that compliment food, rather then dominant them then the Cru wines of Beaujolais deserve your earnest attention.  You get a lot more bang for your buck from these wines then you ever would from similarly priced Pinot Noirs.

Say hello to the Motley Crus of Beaujolais and remember Wine is truly a journey of discovery not merely the destination of an empty bottle.

As my friend Josh from DrinkNectar.com always says Drink Happy!

Chris Oggenfuss, DWS

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Celebrate
the wonders of the Zinfandel grape on ALL social media sites

Friday,
November 19^th 2010

This event is going to be a global 24-hour celebration taking place both virtually and
in-person.

Use
the #Zinfandel hash tag when posting on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Gowalla,
blogs and all the other sites you hang out on. Search the hash tag on
social sites to see what other wine drinkers a

re saying. You’ll be able
to connect and chat with other Zin drinkers around the world.

Click here to
Organize your own #Zinfandel get together

So how do I take part in Zinfandel day?

Easy, just buy a
bottle (or several) of Zinfandel. Invite over some friends, and enjoy great wine and company.

On the DAY
(that’s right the event lasts a whole 24 hours) of the event, gather your
bottle or bottles of Zinfandel, friends and enjoy. We have even set up a way
for you to organize your own TweetUp, MeetUp, or whateverUp event http://www.meetup.com/Zinfandel

If you are social
media inclined we recommend you participate and follow along by logging into
your favorite social media site and use the #zinfandel hash tag when posting
your comments about Zinfandel. You
can then also search the hash tag on social sites to see what other wine
drinkers are saying. If you are using Twitter we suggest using a Twitter
management software (We love both HootSuite,
and Tweetdeck but there are others) and
set up a search column for #Zinfandel,
which will be the hash tag you use to keep up with your fellow Zinfandel
drinkers from around the globe.

Of course you can
also join in via Facebook, Ustream or whatever other social media network you
love.

Not social media
inclined? Don’t worry the important thing is that you gather friends and enjoy
some great wine after all what is wine if not shared?

A
list of Wineries where you can go participate in person:

NAPA

MORE SOON

Need some help with some food
pairing suggestions:

Check these links out:

http://www.zinfandelic.com/zinfandel-wine-food-pairing.html

http://articles.sfgate.com/2002-10-16/food/17565593_1_olive-oil-eggplant-zinfandel

More Information on Zinfandel can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinfandel